There are—though—a few things I’d like to make sure people know.

First, @K0rnb4ll, the PCB is likely to touch the metal cover if you’ve modded it as shown. Before you mod it, the buttons are soldered to the PCB, and the PCB stays in one place. If, however, you add wiring, you give the PCB room to wiggle around and touch the metal bottom cover. If the contacts on a circuit board touch a conductive material while it is turned on, then all of those contacts are connected together. That means you’re going to get a shorted PCB.

The Hori PCB is fine if you take care of it, so make sure you do your mods responsibly: cover the metal bottom with electrical tape and figure out a way to keep the board from floating around. I modded my Sanwa button terminals to fit the PCB’s holes as shown in this SRK post.

One last thing. I like the Stock Hori Stick, so this guide is cool for showing how to add the Cherry Switches! I did the same and it kicks ass. I also like square gates, and I don’t like the hard Sanwa corners. The Hori gate is just right! The problem is: the Cherry switch terminals get in the way of the clips on the Hori gate. If you like the stock gate too, then the solution is simple: cut the damned clips off! The screws should do an excellent job of holding the gate in place (just as they do of holding the Sanwa gate in place).

Thanks again for the guide.

Also, when you say that the pcb will fail do you mean that the mod causes it or that it will fail eventually even if left alone?

Southtown-Homebrew.com

lizardlick.com

gamingnow.net

excellentcom.net

modchipman.com

happcontrols.com

when i press left, it goes left too fast. then when i try to press up, it’d go down instead.
my right and down button works fine though. is there something i did wrong?

Seeing these words still seems wrong to me, Madcatz actually making a quality product.
Great tutorial, I shall be using it when Luckyday ships me that DOA stick.

I turned my Hori EX2 into a PS3 stick buy replacing the PCB and rewiring everything. I plan on up grading my PCB to make it a universal (except for the xbox 360)USB stick. I’ll do a little write up on the conversion.

To install another Xbox 360 PCB, i would suggest heading over to Shoryuken.com and read their tech section. There’s a plethora of information over at SRK.

I would personaly get a Madcatz, they are nicer sticks and much easier to mod.

I am open to any ideas or trouble isolation suggestions. If I need to, does anybody know of a tutorial to change the PCB and exactly what other PCB (i.e. madcatz controller, 360 controller) will work.

Any help with this is greatly appreciated!!

My EX2 died and I added the Cthulhu and use it as a PS3 & PS2/Xbox stick (with adapter)

@ K0rN b4LL: Office Depot/Max should offer laminated stickers. If all else fails, laminate your art and buy spray on glue and glue the art work to your stick.

I still have no clue HOW the daughter PCB came undone

To answer your first question about the Sanwa Joystick Adapter: Yes, that is the one you want for the LB-30-N bat top.

I changed my spring out the other day. I picked up a pack of assorted springs from Home Depot for under 4 bucks. I was not sure about the size, so I just used trial and error method. First, I added a spring inside/within the stock spring, but it was too tight.

So, I opened up the fight pad again and just removed the the stock spring, but left the new one there. I think it is perfect now. The spring I am using was in the assorted pack and was a cone shape (started big but got small on one end.) I cut it down a little bit on the small end to make it work. I would definitely recommend changing the spring as it made a big improvement.

First, just wanna check and make sure that the Sanwa Joystick Adapter is the one used to put the LB-30-N stick top onto a Hori EX2 stick.

Second, I’m not sure about which kind of spring to use for the extra tightness. I’ve seen people post about using different kinds of springs and wasn’t sure which one was best for an EX2. I saw one guy say he used the JLF-SP while another said the LS-32. Should I get one of those 2 or should I just go buy that pack from Hone Depot like they said and combine it with the stock spring?

K0rnb4all, I would not say the bat top performs better than the ball top, but I just prefer the look and the feel. I can get a better grip on the bat tap, and it feels more like an arcade stick, as opposed to a gear shift Every arcade I played SF on in the states, had a bat top on the machine. However, it is probably just personal preference.

However, I am thinking about adding/changing the stock spring for some extra tightness. Similar to what Zeetes posted on this forum. Does anybody know if that will work? Can I just add one of the LS-32 springs to my stock stick/sprint to increase tightness?

Thanks so much for your hard work and instruction on this. I probably could not have done this without the tutorial.

Finished mine yesterday:
http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/328/horicustom2.jpg

Couple of issues I ran into for anybody attempting to try this.
1) I thought about ditching the daughter board, but decided not to and connected the board anyway, however, the metal rings on the board where you make the connections came off. I attempted to create connection directly to the wire on the board and was successful, but then another one broke and pulled the solder connection right off the board. So, I just cut the ribbon cable and wired my buttons to the ribbon cable and not directly to the PCB.

2) Jangofatt made this look very easy, but make sure the 18 gauge wire you solder to the buttons are bent in a way to where the board(s) have room to sit down on the buttons. I had problems getting the PCB low enough to get the back cover on. I cautiously pushed to board down until I had room, but it was a pain in the booty.

The stick feels very nice now. Thanks again Jangofatt!!

http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/5692/theresults.jpg

here’s my creation:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/lonelyunderdog/IMG00223-20090504-2253.jpg?t=1241499875

Thanks for the nifty tutorial! I followed it and came up with this yesterday:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sigrist/3493520096/

Pretty much step by step of what you did, plus a few things:
– Omron (Sanwa JLF) microswitches.
– Added a JLF spring for a stiffer stick.
– Used the Sanwa square gate instead of octo.
– Ditched the daughterboard. I cut the flat cable that goes to it and soldered the wires from the buttons onto the wires from the flat cable.
– Used Seimitsu for the buttons and balltop.

Overall, a mod that was full of win. The stick just plays great now!

Thanks for the great help!

— thiago

excellent guide. it’s very similar to how i modded my wii fs. my only concern are the cherry switches with the stock spring. cherrys (d44) are 75 OF (operating force) while omrons (v15/16/01 etc., negligible differences) and these hori knock-offs are 200 OF. cherrys have a nice fast responsive click, but without a heavier spring, the hori stick is slower to get back to neutral and feels kinda mushy to me. the higher the OF, the harder they are to “click” but they are also a little bouncier, helping to repel the stick back to neutral.

stock hori stick + cherry switches + stock spring or jlf spring + ls-32 spring + octo gate = a pretty solid stick with minimal modification. i actually prefer this over the stock jlf i added to my wii fight stick.

once again, great guide! i like the wii one as well.

I just wanted to follow up that this would most likely take care of any spring worries

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=188169&highlight=spring

Well i hope it helps,again thanks alot for the guide

stock hori stick + cherry switches + stock spring or jlf spring + ls-32 spring + octo gate = a pretty solid stick with minimal modification. i actually prefer this over the stock jlf i added to my wii fight stick.

once again, great guide! i like the wii one as well.