Loadingā¦
27
Quit flush cutting every stump, you're just making a trip hazard and wasting an hour on the grinder
I do removals all over Cuyahoga County and I keep rolling up on jobs where the last crew buzzed every stump down to grade with a 12 inch bar like they're carving a museum piece. Last Tuesday I quoted a guy in Parma $180 for a 14 inch silver maple stump grind and he says the other outfit told him they'd just cut it flush for $60, which is insane because now he's got this 9 inch puck hiding under his mulch bed and his mower deck is gonna eat it. Flush cutting doesn't kill most species either, that maple throws new shoots off the root flare for two seasons and half the time it rots the flare and makes the whole root ball unstable. Deep cutting with a saw is also how you smoke an $80 chain on embedded grit in 30 seconds, ask me how I know from a Norway maple on Ridge Road. Grind it 6 to 8 inches below grade, chase the surface roots, fill with chips, done, that's the whole job. Sawing flush is fine if the tree grows back or you're pulling it, otherwise you're just burning your bar and leaving a trip hazard. Anyone else getting pushback on grind pricing from these flush cut cowboys out there?
1 comments
Log in to join the discussion
Log In1 Comment
maxhart10d ago
Man, the rot thing is the part these guys never get, that puck sitting at grade soaks up water and next thing you know the flare is mush and the customer's got a sinkhole where the lawn used to be. I've pulled stumps two years after a flush cut and the root ball came out like wet cardboard, no taproot hold at all. Grinding 6 to 8 deep and chasing the laterals lets the chips drain and you can actually grade it flat after. Those $60 flush jobs end up costing the homeowner way more when they're paying me to fix it later.
10