Why does nobody talk about sanding grit sequences in cabinet doors

I spent my first 3 years in this trade sanding everything with 120 grit then jumping straight to 220. Thought I was saving time and money. Then a customer who builds guitars casually asked me why my finish had those tiny swirl marks under the light. I brushed it off at first but looked closer next day and he was right. Turns out skipping 150 and 180 grit just leaves micro scratches that stain catches. Now I do 120, 150, 180, then 220 on every door face and the finish comes out glass smooth every time. Anybody else learn a basic step the hard way after years of doing it wrong?

2 comments

2 Comments

garcia.charles9d ago

Man that "blind faith" comment hit close to home lol. Yeah I actually did test it after the guitar guy called me out. Grabbed a scrap of red oak, sanded half with 120 then 220 and the other half with the full sequence. Applied the same stain and clear coat. The difference was night and day under even just a shop light. The scratch side looked like those cheap unfinished doors you see at the big box stores. I now keep a little test board hanging in my shop with each grit sequence labeled just to remind myself to never get lazy again.

richardharris9d ago

So did you ever actually test the difference on a scrap piece with stain before you figured it out, or was it pure blind faith in the 120 to 220 jump lmao