I was over-diluting my bleach for years without knowing it

A client came in last week for a major color correction, and her old stylist had used a 30 volume developer with a 1:1 ratio on her thick hair. It barely lifted. I always used a 1:2 ratio thinking it was gentler, but it just wasn't strong enough for some jobs. After talking with a mentor, I learned that for resistant level 1 hair, a 1:1 mix with 30 volume is often needed for proper lift. I tried it on a test strand, and the difference was night and day. Has anyone else had to adjust their mixing ratios for different hair types?

2 comments

2 Comments

the_nathan1mo ago

Yeah, @brian303 is right, saw the same thing with my own stubborn clients.

brian3031mo ago

Actually, the developer volume matters more than the ratio for lift. A 1:1 mix just makes more product, it doesn't change the strength. For resistant hair, you might need a higher volume, like 40, not just a thicker paste.